The problem with sleep

...is i am currently not getting any.

I'm not exactly sure what it is (ok, yes i am, it is the lack of a proper bed) but lately I have been waking up with these terrible headaches, and my neck feels dissattached from my body.

Not ok.

So, solution, the only one i can think of is to blog.

But, in my infinite wisdom of all things bed, I've decided that nothing can be done until we leave. Really, getting a new bed is out of the question right now, considering I'm trying to get rid of everything I own. Hopefully in the camper I can get more sleep. Hopefully I can find something to sleep on. And hopefully soon, someone rents this house and I can take a chain saw to that bed.

I'll consider that poetic justice.

who needs an excuse for a little vacation

another weekend, another climbing trip. this time, castle rocks id. a place with more climbs than you can imagine, and no grocery store.

in case this is a tad unclear, it is i, leading a 5.9, and shaking in my boots

but, this area, is absolute perfection

kaleb on basalt hand cracks.

don't let the excitement on my face fool you. i was not having fun.



after a full day of climbing the last thing we wanted was to camp. so we didn't.

and this little gem happened to be available.

kaleb was pretty happy about it too.

(i think my affinity for clean, dry, non camping is rubbing off on him)

does it count as an epic

...if it's only salt lake?

For the anniversary, K and I want to slc to....climb. shocking. what we did not know was the climbing in salt lake, is much more difficult than the climbing anywhere else.

and so, a touch hungover, (me) and a touch excited (kaleb) we tried out a 3 pitch 5.7. easy right? no, that would be incorrect.

let me begin by saying hungover climbing, is not fun. in fact, that "i just want to vomit and nap" feeling, is more intense the higher you get off the ground. So, at about, oh 70 ft, it was uncomfortable. At 170 ft, it was magically gone. apparently getting really really scared, and thinking you're going to die, is a great hangover cure.

try it, it'll work.

And that easy 5.7 route, was one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs I have ever done. As it traversed, on the third pitch, over nothing, and a great roof gave the only undercling holds, and feet slipped on nothing. oh and the off-width, I forgot the off-width. too large for gear, to narrow for a chimney. Just shoving my body into an uncomfortable jam, and then getting stuck. 5.7 my ass.

And then the 5.10a. oh what a pretty little crack, it will do nicely. It wasn't a crack, it was a seam. an overhanging seam. without any feet. not pretty. Kaleb led it. I have no idea how. It was the first climb in a very long time, that I couldn't make up. And I've lead 5.10's people.

He tried again on toprope. And looking at the placements, looking at the lack of jams, the lack of feet, said "hmm...I have no idea how I made it up that." Me either buddy. must have been an out of body experience.

Ben came too. And somehow he also climbed that ugly little crack.

So, as an anniversary gift, my husband gave me, 200ft of scared out of my mind, and 90ft of, what the hell is this. Thanks baby.

two years ago today

this happened....


Happy anniversary babe, I love you more than I thought was possible.

a little youth

Today I found my Ani Difranco cd's. I think husband may have hid them from me. (angry woman rock and he don't mix) But, I on the other hand, love her.

And something about her makes me want to sit and write tormented poetry. Maybe it is because she reminds me a little of my high school, early college days, when I was writing...well, tormented poetry. Maybe it is because her voice is so strong, and I've seemed to have lost mine recently. Nevertheless, rocking out to a little Ani is good for my soul, and these lame computer speakers aren't giving me what I want.

"sometimes beauty is easy, sometimes you don't have to try at all. sometimes you can hear the wind blow in a handshake. sometimes there's poetry written right on the bathroom wall"

3 day climbing binge = total satisfaction

Ahh....the delights of camping in April. A group of good friends, good weather, and better climbing. Team crush was in top form as everyone came along for the ride. Ryan, Mike and Beverlee, Jen and Ben. The sun was shining, (even more lovely an idea now that there is 6 new inches of snow in northern ut) And there is red sand in everything. Still.

Desert limestone, the beauty, the perfection, the pain (that stone just eats fingers)

Kaleb on a 12a. His ability and beauty astonishes me more every time we climb. This day, this beautiful Sunday on the turtle wall, he once again made me stand in amazement.

The weekend was another successful climbing trip in the desert. In fact, it may be one of the best we've had. Although, it seems, each trip becomes better then the last. The excitement only becomes more so.

The limestone was perfection. We went out to a new wall in Whoville Desert. The joshua trees were straight from a Dr. Sues story. And with each turn and each hill we only become more lost in it. We found a sport crag without a soul on it. I led a few quick 5.9s and then jumped on a 11b K led. What an amazing climb, roof after roof greeted me. and I only become more entranced with it. What an amazing climber my husband.

Saturday led us to the limestone again. The climbing was technical, with tiny handholds, but the footwork, made the climb.

Then sunday on that red sandstone sport cliff. The easiest climb was a 10c. so no leading for me. But K killed it. As did the rest of team crush. Miss Bevee included, making a nearly flawless ascend.

Driving back from Southern Utah is just depressing. Leaving the 65 degree sunny skies, for the cold, wet, snowy conditions of O-town. But, alas, we must, until this house sells and we can climb everything we can touch.