i think i'm going to need a glass of wine

For the most part I try to stick to writing about climbing, and maybe, somehow, i can relate this back.

I've been wanting to go on a vacation, and before you start in with the "what the hell's" and "your life is a vacation's" let me explain myself.

I've been wanting to go on a real, big, fabulous, sit on a beach and swim in the ocean, type of vacation. And technically it was all but booked. in fact it was booked. But only the airplane part. And husband, in his infinite wisdom noted, maybe we should have book it as a package.

hmmm...good thinking. (note: we is in fact me) So, I canceled the airline tickets. and tried my little heart out to book a package. that we could afford. that was also on the days we planned. that was in some sort of decent hotel. 45 minutes on the phone with the lovely lady and wam, we've got a winner. Only my credit card didn't work. Now, the funds were available. I'm not one to book a trip without them. but i've outdone my limit.

time to call the bank.

another 30 minutes. some transaction issues. and i found out the original ticket was going to come out of the account. then go back in. sometime in the next 30 days. awesome.

So, i've given up. finito. done. no more dreams of sitting on the beach swimming in the ocean vacation.

sadness overwhelms me.

But, such is life. I have learned very valuable lessons that I shall now bestow on you.

1. Always book tickets as a package. the first time.
2. book said ticket when the original thought enters your mind. do not chicken out. get brave. and chicken out again.
3. we is I. and when "we" make decisions for trips plan on a non-committal "eh" from significant other.
4. Open bottle of wine before calling customer support. it is very much needed.
5. The plan was to do a little deep water soloing in the ocean (see i knew I could relate it back to climbing)

but, my good friend, we shall not be dissuaded, we shall overcome, and eventually, that ocean swimming vacation will happen. hopefully sooner rather than later.

600 ft, 10 bolts

The hike in was pretty casual, a simple walk along a river bottom, followed by 1200ft of scrambling.




Ok, so maybe not that simple.


The climb however, was amazing. See those tiny nubs at the very top of that mountain, that is where we are going.

Kaleb looking down on me. The climb began to get to me, as i watched a loose carabiner fall, and fall, and fall, without any thought of stopping. below us, was not ground, it was a canyon, the ground doesn't really exist.
The tiny black spot, all the way at the very bottom of the picture. that is me


But we made it!


And kaleb untied and scrambled to the summit. registered our names, and looked out over the beautiful valley. I refused to untie.

Once down again, we thought it time for a beer, and a bit of a celebration

The hike out was really casual.





an approach that took us up 1200 ft, pretty casual, and the sand dune we climbed was crumbing, even as we climbed it.
first pitch 1 bolt, 200 ft, i'm tied to a tree.

the second pitch was better protected. 200ft 4 bolts and one piece of bad gear.

the third pitch 100 ft. 1 bolt

the forth 100 ft. 2 bolts

the fifth 70 ft. 1 bolt.

the accent free, untied, and scrambled.

It was one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had. and one of the happiest days of my life.

....and that loose carabiner, well, it landed a mere 3 feet from our haul bag. divine intervention? or interesting coincidence?

so much to say....

Fingers

perfect hands

85 amazing feet

Now, as the days begin to pass, and zion seems further and further away, I feel like the entire experience was just a dream. so, let me tell you, before this dream fades, and some other trip takes its place.

zion: mecca or holy ground. and it is. The beauty of the place is overwhelming. The red sandstone cliffs, the petrified sand dunes. having it all be ancient and molded millions of years ago. like our very own castles, but better.

and then the climbing...

Zion climbing is epic. special. it's zion after all. and our climbing took a huge leap forward. both in crack and big wall. now, for any of you that have climbed routes such as, angels landing, or moonlight buttress, (do any of you read this lowly blog?) you may not understand the chasm we jumped. But, we've made a leap.

85 ft, of hands, perfect hands, and 10 ft of fingers. Was one such accomplishment. Kaleb led (as usual) and manged to place gear, and climb with precision. running the bottom pieces out 15ft (!) Then as the fingers approached jammed his arm around a buttress and placed gear in that tiny crack.

I followed. it was perfection. those hands. and then, as my fingers are much smaller than kalebs I lay-backed the finger section. once on top and looking out over the valley, it was beautiful. and moving up that rock with only myself and my grunts (yes grunts, very ladylike) was....what, unexplainable.

good morning from zion

Andrew, a hole for a hold

Adrienne the new lay-back queen

Andrew doing a little gear cleaning

here we finally are

I've been waiting for this vacation for weeks, and there is definitely something to be said for delayed gratification. This place is simply beautiful, the way the green hills and the red cliffs converge.

as usual Kaleb and I flew by the seat of our pants, which ends up being a problem for my friends, who may be just a touch controlling. So as we were driving toward st. george and trying to figure out where to stay, we ran into a baseball tournament, a softball tournament, and a marathon, add that all up, and subtract any hotel room. after a bit of a panic we stayed in cedar city.

Sometimes we get caught climbing in the same spots because we love them. so we hit bluff street. Kristen, Adrienne, Andrew, Gricelda, and a girl kristen works with braved the hike, to sit at the bottom of the crag.

This climbing day on splitter cracks was much more successful then the last. As, I was actually able to ascend and get into a motion. K, was rope gun, and we did a little climb class for those who have never climbed. Probably not a good place as every climb started at 10 and went up from there.

Then, because we wanted to get high, we went to the prophecy wall outside of st. george. and climbed a wall that felt like the holds were going to pull out in your face. So we climbed delicately on solid holds.

The climb itself was like wind and water collided making these really interesting horizontal waves in the rock. they were fairly sharp, and intricate. But every hold, pinch, hook, and jug was solid, and the feet were perfect. This is a wall that needs to be climbed again and again.

because my life doesn't revolve around climbing

or maybe because it does

We are selling our house. Kaleb and I have decided that the best thing for us, right now, is to sell the house we bought together. The house we were married in. The house that we've worked so hard on. The house that I've spent so much time alone in, making my own, while Kaleb was in Alaska. The house that was always more then a house. But, we are selling it.

sometimes i think if you're not terrified then you're doing something wrong. and i'm terrified.

So, dad came over, took some pictures, and told us what to do.

soon, this house will belong to someone else. and our lives will change.

exciting.

climbing in the snow......again

Another day, another climbing adventure. I must say, I will be happy when these stop including, snow, rain, and below freezing temperatures. But until then, the climbing continues in snow, rain, and below freezing temperatures.

City of rocks, a classic, a favorite, a very short drive. This time, it seems, we drove to opposite weather, as it was raining in O-town. And I'm getting smart people, I packed enough clothes for everest. But somehow, by grace, we ended up in the sun. An entity missed by me for some time now. However, snow still packed the trails, and later it snowed, (someone is showing me exactly who is boss)

The group included Kaleb, I, and Ben, an awkward three, especially later, in the almo restaurant, when the waitress asked K, with some disdain, "oh, is this your wife?"

back off honey, i'm meaner than i look

Anyway, climbing...that's what i was talking about. So, ben started us out on a gear lead, with all his brand new gear. very exciting. Then K did a quick 10c.

and (this is the most exciting part) i onsight led that same 10c! I've been working on leading climbs, and i've gotten some down. but this was my first hard lead, that i've onsighted and killed it, may i add. It was pretty awesome. Ben managed to accidentally get some really good video, and if my tech skills increase dramatically very soon, i will post it.

then it started snowing.

i was not pleased.

two more climbs and a couple of stern looks later, it was time to drink.

falling to the ground

Training in a gym is less than ideal, but it was raining, and we needed the workout, so off to momentum in sandy, the best climbing gym around here.

I'm beginning to notice that it takes me a good three climbs before I'm adequately warmed up. After about three, I can climb well, however, those first couple and I look like a deer on ice skates. Momentum is awesome because it has a series of cracks, and we need to practice cracks. Kaleb has the movements down, I on the other hand look like...well a deer on ice skates.

Anyway, a good 4 hours in the gym felt great. But the real excitement was not the climbing.

I was on the wall when suddenly I heard a large thud. Looked over, and a climber and a belay were tangled together on the ground. From where I stood, it look like the climber was leading, and fell about 40 feet, to land directly on top of his belay. Now you may think, well climbing is dangerous and people fall. But not like that. When someone is on belay, it takes very minimal effort to stop them from hitting the ground. I know, I've stopped K many a times. Anyway, this poor climber was hauled out in an ambulance, while his friend held a bag of ice in his hand. Which, I thought was in poor taste.

This is not the first time I've witnessed a gym climber fall to the ground. The first was at weber state, and the girl hit from about 10 feet up. she was ok.

So, my conclusion is this: gym climbing is dangerous. And if a guy with blisters offers to belay, run the other direction.

driving away from sun

kaleb

jen

note: ben and i did climb, regardless of the lack of photographic documentation

The plan was to go to Massacre, spend the day blissfully in the sun, while climbing on black rocks, making it that much warmer.

sometimes things don't go as planned.

Instead we drove two hours, away from the sun, and into yet another foggy, cloudy, and rainy day. (Idaho, you're beginning to disappoint me) Ah, such is life as a climber. Sometimes the weather is simply not on your side.

So, we met up with our good friends Ben and Jen Quick. Who also informed us, "strange it was sunny in Poecatello" Yes, we know guys, thanks.

To all you who climb, I'm not telling where this wonderful place is for two reasons 1. I would like to keep it all to myself because I'm selfish. 2. I have no idea. we made plenty of turns, and I became thoroughly lost.

But, while the sun hates me, and the hike for two miles in sand was a bit rough. The rock was once again perfect. The interesting thing about Massacre, is the start of the climb. Which are always very difficult. Getting off the ground and actually having that first good foot hold nearly impossible. Nearly. Ben and Kaleb have a slightly easier time, given their upper body strength, and their length. Jen and I made it much harder than it needed to be. But, bonus, the tops of the climbs were these technical crimpers, and tiny footholds, requiring major balance and footwork. We happened to be much better at this part than the guys. So, in all, something for everyone.

After another mile or so, and a new wall, K did an 11a. I, being in a positive happy state, blatantly said "oh, that looks impossible". Miss Sunshine. To prove me wrong his sailed up it. Looking strong, relaxed, and beautiful. amazing. Later Ben, proving his prowess at climbing, worked a 10a into submission. It had no handholds, no footholds, and it was long. go ben.

As the temperature drooped through the day, those beautiful black rocks became little evil knives. And my climbing shoes torture chambers. So I did not climb as much as I would have liked. Plus, I was angry with the clouds. They seemed to not care.