a day without the wives

Kaleb went to Castle Rocks with his good friend Ben. I was in desperate need of a rest day, and I'll admit, some time to catch up. So off they went, without any wifes.

The snow has yet to melt in Almo Id. So they skied in to the far-away crag.

The pictures say the rest.

spring...stubborn and elusive

Yesterday was a gorgeous but cold (18 degrees!) day. So, as we waited for it to warm up, we played a little rock, gym, snowboarding, trying to decide what to do. Landed on snowboarding.

We went to Wolf Mountain, a sweet little resort in the sun. I think it may have been send your child to the mountain day, because there were also tons of junior high aged rug rats running around.

A little self congratulations, I am getting much better at snowboarding. About time, since I've been at it over 10 years. K, on the other hand, is a beautiful snowboarder, one of the reasons I fell in love with him (ahhh). I could spend days watching him float down the mountain, going of jumps, and generally being amazing.

The sun is gone, and snow has once again replaced her. Looks like the gym will win tonight.

because valentines day is useless

because we heart each other

me

andrew

inside the crack

k- placing gear

Climbing in the big Id was a blast. The weather reporter was faulty in his prediction, as the weather was overcast (read: not sunny) and about 34 (read: not warm). When we left Ogden however, we had high hopes because it was gorgeous here, then about the Idaho border we drove into a massive fog bank. great.

But, Adrienne and Andrew were upbeat about it, and though I felt partially to blame (for the weather?) they seemed to think it wasn't our fault at all.

We began the day on Big Time a 4 pitch climb, but the first three were easy 5.7's, the final being a 5.10 trad route. This was an eye opening experience for me, as normally I am so deathly afraid of heights that any mention of multi-pitch begins an automatic anxious reaction. But since this was an easy route, I even led the second pitch. A huge step.

Funny story: as we had just finished the forth pitch, and K was belaying Andrew up, we noticed another group very close behind. Now, let me just reiterate, it wasn't beautiful weather, thus, choice in climbs were many. This group decided the climb for them was exactly the same climb we were on. In the climbing community etiquette is very important, it is what keeps us from becoming a bunch of, well, asses. This man clearly had none. And as he climbed literally over the top of me, and his rope dragged along my legs, I had an unrelenting urge to give it just a little tug, resulting in him tumbling down. a lovely image. We were pissed, but getting into a fight at 300 feet is a bit complicated. So instead, we slashed his tires when we got back to the parking lot. (or at least imagined it)

A quick side note. Adrienne is Martha Stewart and brought bread pudding, white chocolate sauce and raspberries! Oh Adri, you are the greatest.

After dessert we went to the city of rocks and busted out a few more climbs at sunset. Andrew, quite the gangster, led a runout 5.10, with bolts so far apart you could park a semi. Killed it. K lead a wet, snowy 10d, add water and I think it jumps a grade so we give it an 11. Killed it. And it was one of the funnest climbs I've ever top-roped. Totally interesting, and fantastic footwork.

All in all, it was a good day, and guys, we need to do it again soon!

in other news, it is now sleeting snowy rain in ogden. lovely.

sometimes it's nice getting what you want

We are leaving this morning to go to the city of rocks in Idaho. I have the day off work (finally) so we are going on a quick trip. Really quick, as I only have the day. It satisfies two of the the allotted requirements previously posted, there are large rocks on which I can climb, and there will be sunshine. As for the palm trees and beach I'm out of luck, but at the end of the day, I may put an umbrella in my drink.

As a bonus our friends Adrienne and Andrew are coming. Adrienne originally got me into climbing. Probably unbeknown to her, as we were top-roping every top-ropeable route in Ogden, she was slowly creating a monster. It was a fun summer, Kaleb was in Alaska, I was living with my parents, and neither of us were married. We would get together every chance we had, before work, after work (after my dad fixed us cocktails!) and go climbing. If we were lucky Andrew came along to lead a route, if not, we would just top-rope, and sometimes, if we were feeling really brave we would try to lead a route together. Adrienne usually being the first, and the one who finished.

So, Nae, thank you, this whole lifestyle is because you let me borrow a harness and your little brothers shoes, and showed me how fun climbing is. I'm excited to do it again with you today.

i need a vacation, and more coffee

This will do.

I've come to the conclusion that I like vacations the most. And before you get all "um...hello, you just got back from a vacation" I know. I don't care. I want to go again.

I think the monotony of day to day life, and the weather is getting to me. I want sunshine, and warmth and maybe a beach. Yes, definitely a beach. With very large rocks sticking out of the ocean that I can climb on. And drinks with umbrellas in them. Yes, that sounds nice, I need that to happen. And, bonus, it would also line up nicely with my love of palm trees.

a little snow, a little rest day, a little shout out

Well, spring is once again put on hold as it is snowing (sort of) in this state of the greatest snow on earth. Having taken 4 days off work last week for vacation, this week I get only one, and it turns out that day is Sunday, Valentines day I think. So it snows in vain, as I will not be able to strap on my board.

After 3 days straight of climbing and our 9th street trek, it is time for a few rest days. My hips and ankles hurt where they crease (what does that mean?) and I'm almost positive I'm lacking fingerprints. But, hopefully, the rest is short, and we can train again in the gym soon. Pulling on plastic is better than pulling on nothing. (not much)

I would like to say I miss my friends.

Working retail means nights and weekends. Most of my girlfriends work a normal week. This leaves very little very little time for friend outings. Throw in training, vacations, husbands and children, and that time is reduced further. Most of my friends don't climb. Well, ok that's a lie, they do climb or they want to climb, and they would probably love to go with us. But, when we go we go right now and that little of a notice is difficult for most people. So girlfriends, I miss you, and I think about you.

remember me?

spring we are ready

I am very much ready for spring. Currently my windows are open, letting in that sweet smelling air. The kind that is clean, and comes with just enough coolness, not the kind that is bitter and triggers the heater.

Today we went to 9th street, in Ogden, and climbed a few home-town routes. The sun was shinning, it was warm, and the entire experience made me miss spring terribly.

This winter hasn't exactly been a proper winter. The snow is shallow, and prone to avalanches, the air is dirty and it has just been cold. Now, we are doing the best we can to winter climb. Some days we hike through boulder fields covered in snow, and up icy trails to climb. Other days we go out of town, hoping for warm air and sun. And when we get really desperate we go to the climbing gym. But absolutely nothing is more satisfying than climbing on a day, when the sun is out, when the weather is warm enough to take off your jacket, and yet still cool so the rock is sticky. Today was one of those days. I expected nothing from the climb, there were no preconceived notions running through my mind. I simply roped up, and climbed.

Perfect.

day three

pictures without a post











Black rocks.

day two

And then the rain came...

why, yes, those are our new shoes...

Climbing in the rain is difficult, not impossible, but difficult.

We wasted a good part of the day lounging around, shopping, and eating. Not a waste. We bought K a new harness, as his was far too big, and any upside-down fall would result in him tumbling out (not ok). And both of us some new approach shoes, because, like I said, we like our shoes.

Then we went climbing. This time, basalt. Well, more of a rain drenched waterfall, and some rock. Only two climbs, because like I mentioned before, difficult.

Then we just rolled around, went for little hikes, and drove out to see different climbs. We attempted a drive through Hilldale to see polygamous' you know, like a circus, but the road out was a one way, and we thought it would be bad (hey we watch Big Love, we know about the Hummers)

*sorry no climbing pictures, it is hard enough to belay and take photos, impossible to belay, take photos and look up in the rain*

day one

K's Birthday and the sandstone

This is right before I cried

Kaleb hand jamming

Happy birthday husband! 28, and still as good looking as ever.

Because it was Kaleb's birthday, and because we have an ongoing love affair with sandstone, we did a little red-rock climbing. Well, Kaleb did a little climbing, I had a little breakdown.

The morning began a little temperamental, it was kind of raining, kind of not, and it looked like it had maybe rain the night before (but the drive in was dry?) We went out to Snow Canyon to find some guide book climbs. The one we settled was supposed to be an easy 5.8 warm up. It was not. The rock was soft and crumbling beneath Kalebs feet as he set unsteady gear. Every move was sketchy, and the gear insecure. It was not a simple 5.8. There are times in climbing, when I get on a route K has already led, and am amazed by his ability climbing, and his control of his emotions, this was one of those times. The route was terrible. It was like climbing dry mud, it crumbled in my fingers and my feet peeled off even steady holds.
That was the last of Snow Canyon

Bluff Street looms above the city, and from the street perfect split lines can be seen. We've climbed bluff before, and it was fantastic, so we decided to climb again. Sandstone crack climbing is different than any other type of climbing, the way the rock is formed, it does not have face holds (face holds: holds on a route that you can pull up on) Instead it has massive cracks in which you jam in your hands, and flex, hoping they hold. Meanwhile your feet are jammed and twisted, and again, hoping they hold. When in a crack climbing zone, it is amazing, when not, it is very frustrating. I was not in the zone.

Kaleb led each climb, and placed gear like a pro. Making his ascents beautiful and strong, and coming off the rock with bloody hands. He has a way with climbing, and even if it hurts, if it holds, he keeps his hand in place. I climbed each after him, and with each climb it was as if I had never maneuvered a rock before. But I continued, and struggled, and sandbagged up. It wasn't until the third climb, when I slipped and fell, and slipped and fell, and then slipped one more time, then I cried.

We finished the day on Chuckawalla Wall. A fantastic sport route wall of huge holds and pumpy climbing. It was there that I finally felt like I had some ability. K, of course, killed it.